And you really need your investments protected, but you just don’t have the funds to build some of these other options. Well, don’t give up hope. This video shows you how to build a pretty decent structure that will do what you need it to do for basically no money. And honestly, if you have the materials on hand it could actually be built for free.
On the exterior we remove the siding on the front of the garage and installed new hardboard siding that matched the original on the building. Electrically we removed and relocated existing lights and added a ceiling fan as well as recessed lighting. Some additional outlets and network wiring was installed then connected to the home and panel box. The interior was insulated in areas such as the ceiling, stairwell and miscellaneous sections of the walls. We laminated (overlay) the existing sheetrock with 3/8″ wallboard on the sidewalls and stairwell and 1/2″ for the ceiling.
Heating & AC ($1000-$5000): Adding central heat and air into your garage can either be simple or difficult. If you have a robust heating and air conditioning system in place it is as simple as expanding your existing ducting. If the additional square footage is more than your system can handle you will need to add in a new unit. Luckily, a small garage usually is able to be fit into your existing system.
The cost to finish a garage is often less than the cost of a remodel, coming in at an average of about $5,000. Finishes should factor high on your list of materials before you ever begin your garage conversion. The answers to the following questions will go far in determining your budget. Low-end finishes will save you big bucks at the time of renovation, but high-end finishes will help recoup your ROI when it comes time to sell.
An insulated garage will stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. The first step is to be sure the attic is well ventilated. Check to see how many attic and roof vents you have. A good rule of thumb is a total of 1 sq. ft. (144 sq. in.) of vent opening per 300 sq. ft. of attic divided between the soffit and roof vents. For a typical 20 x 22-ft. garage, you’d need about six 4-in. x 12-in. soffit vents and two standard square roof vents. Make sure your ventilation is effective by installing vent chutes between the trusses. Vent chutes have a channel that prevents blown insulation from blocking the airflow from the soffit vents to the attic space. Plug the area under the vent with wood blocking or plastic and a chunk of fiberglass insulation to prevent wind from blowing up through the insulation or insulation from filling the soffit.
The overhead garage door can be a big source of drafts and heat loss. Recently installed doors usually include a weather-stripped stop around the perimeter. But older doors may be lacking a weather strip. Luckily, it’s an easy fix. Garage door weather stripping is available at home centers and hardware stores, and installation is straightforward. If your overhead door is uninsulated, search online for “garage door insulating kits.”
Start by insulating the walls. Buy unfaced R-13 batts for 2×4 walls and unfaced R-19 batts for 2×6 walls. Match the width of the batt (15-1/4 in. or 23-1/4 in.) to the stud space. Cut batts carefully for a tight fit. Next, staple 4-mil poly to the walls and ceiling. Embed the poly sheeting in caulk around the perimeter of each piece to create an airtight seal. Seal the seams between sheets and seal the poly to electrical boxes with caulk or special sheathing tape (it’s typically red and looks like packing tape).
One of the main ways to succeed on a budget is to be organized and have a good plan. Having a good plan means knowing exactly what you want out of it. This requires you to decide everything from paint colors to trim style before the first nail is driven. Having a well thought out plan means knowing where you are getting materials from, and when they will be delivered. This plan is the bedrock that your budget friendly remodel will rest on.
When it comes to design, nothing provides more a boost than the actual garage door. Not only can they match the architecture of your home, but they come in a wide range of sizes, styles and components. Chances are, you already have a garage door, but years of opening and closing, along with general wear and tear, can bring about a fair share of issues.
Besides a brand new room, there are plenty of other benefits that come with remodeling garages. First and foremost, if you simply update your garage with new flooring, windows, insulation or garage organizers, you instantly increase the value of your home. While you may not see a 100% return on investment the day you sale, you will surely get more than you would have before the garage renovation.
Look for a contractor who specializes in garage remodels - or at least one who has experience remodeling garages. Ask to see pictures of previous jobs such as the before and after garage conversion picture shown here. A good contractor should be able to show you garage conversion designs and you can also get some inspiration from looking online at garage remodeling ideas. Remodeling a garage is different than remodeling other areas of the home, and it helps to have a contractor who understands that.
If you decide to expand your garage to make more room for tools or storage, this is considered adding on to your home, and costs will typically go up. Home addition costs fall between $20,000 and $70,000 for most homeowners, depending on the size and type of space built. Your contractor will frame out new walls and expand the room's foundation. If you intend to keep the space the same only reorganizing it, you may have only the costs associated with purchasing and installing shelving and cabinetry.
You may have to drill holes through studs or through the top plate of walls to reroute wires. If so, be sure to center the holes on the stud. If the plastic-sheathed cables are too short to reach the next box when you reroute them, you can add a junction box and splice on a length of cable. The new box must be accessible either in the attic space or through a blank cover on the wall or ceiling.
Most unfinished garages have the bare minimum of outlets and lights, so you’ll want to add a few. And in some cases, you’ll have to reroute wiring that’s attached to the face of studs or the underside of ceiling framing. We had to reroute phone wires, door opener control wires and plastic-sheathed cable in our garage. Remove surface-mounted wiring and move it into the stud space, or reroute it over the top of the ceiling joists or trusses.
Did you now that the garage is one of the biggest uninsulated areas of the home? Improperly insulated garage doors can vastly increase your heating and electric bills. Even worse, they can cause moisture damage once it rains or an uncomfortable setting every time you enter. Therefore, garage insulation tends to creep up with all garage remodeling projects, especially those concerning a finished garage.